While
Thaipusam celebrations in Penang are famously associated with the
cluster of crowded temples in the Waterfall area, a
small but powerfully
significant landmark is existing quietly nigh, unrevealed to the
public.
For the last two centuries, a little shrine - known
only to a handful of people - has been lying hidden from public
attention, in the dense forested hills behind the nearby Botanic
Gardens.
Every year about a week before Thaipusam, a small
gathering of Hindu devotees makes an ascent to offer prayers at the
shrine. The little-known event, held in the early morning, marks the
beginning of the Thaipusam festivities. The group of worshippers
comprises local community leaders and temple volunteers.
What
makes the ancient shrine even more significant is its location. It lies
amid verdant greenery at the very base of one of Penang island's
greatest natural landmarks - the Waterfall. The beautiful giant cascade
is visible to the public only as a thin white strip as seen from a
distance along the tarmac footpath of the Botanic Gardens.
The
famous waterfall and the little shrine are both inaccessible to the
public; but while the waterfall is known widely, the age-old shrine has
been virtually unheard of.
A couple of years ago, I had the
privilege of accompanying the group of devotees during the annual
incipient prayers for Thaipusam.
The 25-odd worshippers,
beating traditional drums and quivering trumpet music in the placid
dawn, trekked up the hill behind the Waterfall Reservoir in the gardens.
Carrying trays filled with flowers, garlands, coconuts, milk
and other ceremonial items, the small procession took a walk up a long
flight of steps built by the authorities along the hill some years ago.
Incidentally, the reservoir, located 232 feet above sea level, was
first built by British engineer J. MacRitchie in 1892 and reconstructed
some sixty years later. Today, the site of the waterfall and the shrine
is under the purview of the Penang Water Authority, which operates the
reservoir.
We left whiffs of incense odour trailing our way
towards the site. Witnessing the simple yet charming religious event was
an engaging experience for me.
The shrine is ensconced within
low forested hills far behind the high barbed-wire fencing of the
reservoir (right), and houses an ancient idol of the venerated Hindu
god, Muruga - the mighty son of Lord Shiva. High up the dense
vegetation, the site is unapproachable and prohibited to the public.
As we walked up the hill surrounded by lush foliage, we could hear the
torrent of the waterfall's plunge against the rocks become louder and
louder, until the noise became a rich never-ending bellow of foam and
water.
We then walked over a small wooden bridge near the base
of the fall, and stepped into a muddy level clearing alongside the
waterfall's slope.
There lay the shrine amid the rhythm and solitude of nature.
The sight of the diminutive, sharply chiseled idol of Muruga is an
arresting experience. The idol stands out instantly amid the thick
vegetation.
Muruga stands heroic and imperious like a proud
peacock, one arm akimbo, the other holding a staff. A small spear (vel)
strapped across his stately frame gleams in fresh sunlight like
lightning.
High above the idol, a dense reach of vegetation towers aloft like a protective overhanging parasol.
I then watched the worshippers perform a beautiful ritual of gently
washing the idol and dressing the deity in ceremonial saffron robes. The
drums and trumpets reverberated amid low unceasing vibrations of
cicadas and birds.
The heavy growth of fronds and thick boughs
and the hanging wild vines appeared to welcome the annual guests in
this spiritually charged natural setting.
The image of Muruga
lies next to a big iron Vel, the god's symbol, that is embedded in a
concrete slab. The Vel is believed to have been placed there during the
1780s by Indian labourers used by the British to transport water from
the waterfall to George Town.
Apparently, the bottom section
of the Vel was broken after some years. The Vel, however, has been kept
at its place, but covered with concrete with only the top part showing.
It is said that a Hindu monk was taken by the waterfall's setting and
inspired the building of the shrine, when the Indian workers were
transporting water towards George Town on bullock carts.
The
monk was not alone in being affected by the site. British Captain James
Low wrote a lengthy article about the place in the 1830s.
Charles Dyce also wrote: "The waterfall amply repays one for the
scramble and loss of wind necessary to reach a convenient spot: once
seated on some rocky ledge one feels disinclined to descend again and
encounter the burning sun."
According to an official notice
near the base of the waterfall, early paintings and photographs showed
an Indian shrine at the foot of the falls. Records also indicate an old
Muslim grave of 'Chenana' on the hill above the waterfall, bearing his
name.
It is interesting to note that the waterfall has been
one of the historical sources of water for George Town and ships that
called at Penang. In fact, in 1805, an aquaduct was built from the
waterfall via Pulau Tikus to a reservoir near Leith Street Ghaut and
Hutton Lane respectively.
For me, the experience of the morning was uplifting and singular.
Trekking up the hill, witnessing the prayers and breathing the
sprightly air of nature. I felt the site to be a consummation of deep
spirituality, history and nature. An ancient religious monument, virgin
greenery and the great waterfall nestled amid craggy vertical columns of
sheer hillside.
I could think of few places on Earth fit for
the Lord Muruga, prince of righteousness and protector of the innocent,
to perch with his solid omniscient smile, as he calmly regarded the
world before him.
"I hear your every whisper."
"I, Skanda, Son of Siva, have spoken." - Suryadasi Devi, Valley Center, California
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